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232 Views· 17 January 2024

COMPLICE Spring 1991 Milan - Fashion Channel

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COMPLICE Spring 1991 Milan - Fashion Channel

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The Italian fashion company Genny introduced the Complice label in 1975.

Founded by Arnoldo Girombelli in 1961 as a small clothing factory in Ancona, Italy, Genny had become a large-scale operation by 1968.

Donatella Ronchi, the daughter of a painter, studied business and art and met Arnoldo in the mid-1960s.

She began sketching skirts and blouses for him at his small boutique and he then hired her as product manager.

The two married and expanded the Genny boutique into a competitive business that raised the reputation of Italian ready-to-wear; following her husband’s death in 1980, Donatella became the company’s chairwoman in 1983.

A series of leading designers produced the Complice collections over the brand’s lifetime.

Gianni Versace, then relatively unknown, designed the line from its founding in 1975 until 1981: it included a leather collection, tailored garments in suede, and silk and knit evening wear.

Guy Bourdin photographed Versace’s designs for the brand’s advertisements in the late 1970s.

Girombelli then hired Claude Montana to design the line; Montana’s collections included striped tracksuits, cropped denim jackets, and baggy pants and skirts, the silhouette was strong-shouldered and androgynous.

In 1986 Marisa Modiano, with Montana’s guidance, presented the 1986 resort line.

The following year Muriel Grateau became Complice’s designer; as The New York Times reported in March of 1987, Grateau shifted the tone of the collection from Montana’s “tough chic” to a “new wan and winsome look,” with feminine jersey dresses that draped and fell across the body in princess lines.


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